Stationary reels
written by Flyfisher for our German Forum.
Compared to buying a rod, buying a reel is much simpler.
A stationary reel of medium size, with 2 or 3 spools of varying capacities should cover roughly two thirds of all angling situations. As everybody knows, you should give attention to quality. Whoever can do without the (unnecessary) technical titbits can get a really decent reel for about £ 40.00.
I will now describe how a stationary reel works and where the name comes from!
So, where does the name stationary reel come from?
Whereas the first fishing reels had a spool that turned on its own axis, the spool on a stationary reel does not turn. It remains stationary on its own axis. A rotor with a line guide rotates around the spool, feeding line on the spool. The original reel form is recognisable in multiplier and fly reels.
Gearing & Co
Let's take a look at the stationary reel up close.
The housing ends in the reel foot, which is the part which allows fitting to the fishing rod. Whilst casting and fishing, the hand is place around the reel foot, ensuring that it is held securely. The reel gearing is found within the housing and transfers the rotary motion of the crank arm to the rotor axle. The relationship between crank arm and rotor rotation is known as ratio. With a ratio of 5:1 (a good, average value for an all-round reel), for every rotation of the crank arm, the rotor turns five times around the spool, loading line onto the spool.
The bail arm plays an important role. During the cast, it is folded out of the way, allowing line to run freely from the spool. The angler holds the line with their index finger, releasing it during the cast at the appropriate moment. The bail arm snaps back into position with the first rotation of the crank arm. It catches the line and lays it under the hardened; on quality reels, rotating; line roller. The spool does not actually have its own axle but it rather fitted onto one. Drag discs regulate the resistance with which a hard fighting fish can take line, tiring it every time it makes a run. As far as quality goes, one of the most important features is the drag system. It must have a fine adjustment, to tune to the line strength and allow smooth line feed without the initial resistance being too great.
Front or Rear drag?
Front and rear drag reels are 2 of the drag systems available on stationary reels. They both have their supporters, and they both have their advantages and disadvantages.
Advantage:
The drag system on a front drag reel sits in the spool. Its operation is direct and fine adjusting.
Disadvantages:
When changing the spool, the drag knob has to be unscrewed fully. On some reels, this can be quite a task.
When altering the drag system during the fight, you have to reach round to the front of the spool and may get caught up in the line.
Rear drag reels have an adjusting knob at the rear of the reel. It operates by braking the spool axle (working indirectly on the spool). On quality reels, this is not a substantial disadvantage. The spool has a push-button release, allowing you to remove the spool with ease. That is their advantage!
Stationary reels are also fitted with an anti-reverse system. With the system deactivated ('off' or 'out'), the crank arm can be turned in both directions and gives you better control over line feed. With the system activated ('on' or 'in'), the crank arm only moves forwards. This mechanism almost completely ensures that during the cast, the rotor -
Does not operate freely
The bail arm does not snap back
The cast is not ended abruptly
This could cause you to lose the lead or trace completely or cause them to 'return to sender'.
Ball bearings are another mark of quality. Of course, this subject is exaggerated by many manufacturers. Reels with 10 or more ball bearings - fitted to everything that rotates - is not what is needed. The weight of the bearings make the reel needlessly heavy. A reel should at least have 3 or 4 ball bearings for the crank arm axle and the rotor axle.
The quality of the gearing can be seen in the way line is taken up. Even, slightly conically line lay is essential for a clean cast. If the line is not even, the gearing is badly tuned. Before you know it, the line starts nesting. In such cases, you will need to replace the line.